This is the 3rd (& Penultimate) Installment of “Dan & Elisse’s Honeymoon Adventure”: Water puppets & trendy Hanoi; northern Vietnamese Villages, and a romantic Junk Cruise on Halong Bay… a trek into the Central Highlands: a dugout canoe down the Black River and my 49th Birthday Dinner Party in KonTum; and frolicking on the beach in Quin Yan…
Art students sketching… & the Louis Vuitton Moped Seat…
At one village we met the elderly musician- over 100 years old- who is truly a national treasue, and a friend of Mr. Huyns father…
One of the most extraordinary and touching things we experienced was how Dan was greeted in the villages we visited- with hugs and thanks, in both English and French, and great, very real, affection… And yes, we got to taste all sorts of wonderful new drinks, too!
One of my wobbly “motorcycle photos”…
The next day Mr. Huyn took us to visit several villages, starting with a fascinating Jarai cemetary in Plei Ro Lay, where he explained the customs of the people and the wonderful carvings which decorate the tombs, and how the tombs are created, kept, maintained, and then abandoned after 7 years…
We asked Mr. Huyn about the unique, hand-loomed mountain fabrics that Dan remembered from his time serving in this area, and Mr. Huyn took us to the studio of a lovely lady weaver who is exactly Dan’s age (61), and from her we bought a beautiful piece of her hand-loomed fabric… This waqs the most special birthday present I could imagine…
Each afternoon Mr. Huynh managed to get us back to Kon Tum just before the sky opened up with the daily, 4p.m. torential downpour!
We returned to the Dakbla Hotel via motorcycle, me clutching my bouquet of roses and a souvenier bottle of Hanoi Vodka…
photos of some of the beautiful green valleys between the mountains. The road was Very Route 52-ish (a narrow, winding, 2-lane mountain highway), and Dan regaled me with his experiences on this road in a deuce-&-a-half, which must have been totally terrifying… Our driver, obviously trying to please us, played his one tape of Celine Dion over and over and over… He kindly chose our hotel for us, too, which turned out to be great, taking us to the Hoang Yen, a high-rise hotel on the sea. The neon sign looked to me from afar to read “Hang Ten”, and that is what I will ever refer to it as! For $45/night we got a Honeymoon Room on the top floor with a small balcony overlooking the sea, as romantic a spot as one could ever want! Quy Nhon is a still-sleepy Vietnamese seaside resort, as well as a University town, and hasn’t (yet) been discovered by western tourists, and it was fun to be the only tourists walking along the water past all the colorful fishing boats, watching the fishermen in small round dish-like woven basket-boats… and see the 40-year-old US Army trucks, still hauling stuff up and down the beach!
Quy Nhon’s Hot Disco, however, turned out to be at our very own “Hang Ten”, and we spent our last night in Quin Yan enjoying drinks, tropical fruit, and karoke, while watching the university students and off-duty soldiers dance up a storm to a thunderously pulsating techno beat that I can still feel! Dan even spun me around the dance floor in a Lindy Hop to the cheers of the karaoke-rs! As I noted before, the motorcycle helmet has become The Fashion Statement, and several of the disco kings were dancing in military-style steel-pot helmets, one even emblazoned with “M.P.”! We had some excellent meals in Quin Yan, including one of local crab, and I just Had to try the local booze (the cheapest thing on our hotel’s liquor menu, by the by…) Ruou Bau Da Nhu Tram, the specialty liquor of Binh Dihn. Deceptively, it came to us in a gift box, a tender, pale green porcelain “teapot”, covered with delicate, violet relief flowers (which now decorates the Elkhorn Inn), complete with an adorable little footed ceramic shot glass… and turned out to be THE most stunningly powerful evil whisky either of us had ever drank! As in “Elisse had to drink it, because Dan wouldn’t touch it” powerful! Truly Wicked stuff! 🙂
Tune in again shortly for the Final Installment of “Dan & Elisse’s Excellent Adventure!